When I was doing research for my book ‘Pardiz’, I went to the Palace kitchen in Tehran and there I saw a menu for a State dinner given in 1976 by the then Shah of Iran and his Empress, Farah Diba. I loved that the menu, devised by the Empress, included an Aash, a traditional street food. It is typical of the Empress, an educated, sophisticated and down to earth woman, to serve what is really a peasant dish at such an elegant dinner.
Aash is a very important part of Persian food culture. Every occasion has its special aash, be it a religious ceremony, the celebration of new year or a child’s first tooth.
Aash-e-maast is a very hearty dish, a mix between a soup and a stew, and I think is perfect to eat on these cold cold days.
• the chickpeas and canellini beans have to soak over night
• to serve 4-6 people
• 1 large Spanish onion chopped
• 100 gr soaked cannellini beans
• 100 gr soaked chickpeas
• 100 gr Persian or Basmati rice, washed 3 times
• 2 litres very good chicken or vegetable stock
• 300 gr plain, Greek yoghurt
• 1 teaspoon turmeric powder
• 1/2 teaspoon chilli flakes
• 1 egg yolk
• 1 bunch each of fresh parsley. coriander, spring onions and dill
• 1/2 bunch fresh mint, all roughly chopped
• salt and pepper to taste
• in a large saucepan fry the onion in a little oil and butter until golden
• add the turmeric and chilli and cook for a few more minutes
• stir in drained beans, chickpeas, rice and the stock
• gently boil for about 20 minutes or until the beans are tender
• add more stock if necessary
• add all the chopped herbs and cook for 5 more minutes
• in a bowl mix together the egg yolk and yoghurt
• pour this into the soup and gently cook for 5 minutes
• the soup should become silky and smooth
• taste for salt and pepper
• for the garnish:
• 1 Spanish onion finely sliced
• 4 cloves garlic thinly sliced
• 1/2 a bunch of fresh mint chopped
• fry the onion until crisp, add the garlic and mint
• cook for a few minutes longer ( do not burn the garlic)
• pour the soup into large bowls and decorate with the garnish
• you can serve some Persian Naan or sour dough bread on the side
